Off-topic chat. May contain offensive language or images.
#487019
Sure, I don't disagree with what you're saying - but for a car that you're going to use to get you from A to B, he's obsessing about something that he really won't need to be concerned about. Drive it 'normally' and the fact it is/isn't turbo won't be an issue. Just enjoy the fact you can overtake people when required ... :)
#487020
Thanks both. I see what you're saying Chris, I will probably err on the side of caution anyway (since I'm boring and sensible).

Apparently this has cruise control.. so that ought to save on the fuel economy and apparently when you have cruise control you realise just how shit a lot of drivers are as they speed up and slow down and you end up re-overtaking often. Although I may not use it, as I'm a little worried it would make me relax too much. Driving with the foot off the throttle is a somewhat weird idea.
#487024
Cruise control is ok, and as Chris highlights, very usefull for SPECS camera systems, it WILL NOT be better for fuel economy though.

Extract from the Telegraph explains it without my typing it all out:

Sense and sensitivity

One of your correspondents mentioned that cruise control increases fuel consumption. Is this true? I have been a keen user of cruise control for many years and it is the only extra I ever have installed on any new car.

MD, York

Yes, because it robs you of the sensitivity of control via your right foot. Motorways are surprisingly undulating. If you leave the tripmeter on "instant consumption" you can see the economy dive on an incline if you maintain speed. But if you lift off a little bit and lose maybe 5mph, you might maintain reasonable economy. On a descent the opposite happens. When you could increase speed without burning extra fuel, the cruise control slows the car and economy suffers.
#487027
Ah OK, makes sense, thanks. I doubt I'll use it much, though I agree it could be useful in average speed camera areas.
#487032
dimtimjim wrote:Ok, when starting the engine from cold, do not under any circumstances 'give it the boot' for the first 5 minutes or so (in my car, I wait for the water to hit 90 degress, as i don't have an oil temp guage, but by then the oil should be up above 40 degrees, which is enough. Obviously, the colder the day/temperature, the longer you need to heat the oil before booting it. Try to keep revs in the lower half of the rev range and only tickle the throttle. The point being you need the engine oil to have a little bit of temperature gain (and hence become slightly thinner) before forcing it through the Turbocharger.

Additionally, if you have been for relatively spirited drive (working the Turbo hard near the end of the journey) leave the engine to idle for approx 1-2 mins before shutting off the engine. (Or just don't drive like a maniac when nearing journey end). This is to allow the Turbocharger to cool slightly before you shut engine off, If not, the turbo will still be cherry-red hot and once you kill the engine, the oil sat in the turbo will be cooked by the excessive heat, which in turn over thickens it, which in turn will block the oil flow holes in the turbo.

Simple really.


I'm sure this is all true, but seriously...just drive your car!

Unless you are a boy racer (like DTJ) then i'm 99% certain you will have no issues!
#487036
Again, ask Yudster...

Thrashing a turbocharged car from cold is the second worst thing* you can do to it. Trust me, you will not get more than 60,000 from a turbo if you don't treat it right.

People pop a turbo all the time and then face themselves with a £1,000+ bill, and for what?! Jus 'cos you couldn't be arsed to observe due care and attention.

Although, feel free to drive your own car however you see fit, all i'm trying to do is advise Toph on a car which is known for having turbo issues and save the fella a few £'s. Sure, like you he can choose to ignore any advice given, but at least he is now armed with all the facts. Unlike your '99% certain' which is based on nothing other than you being a argumentative twonk. Had you asked I'd not have been so thorough, but Toph's a good lad, so why not help where I can.



* and jus before you ask, the No1 killer of engines is putting it 'under load' too soon when starting, cold or otherwise. Always start the engine and give it at least 10 seconds before you engage a gear and pull away, ideally blip the throttle a few times first.
#487039
dimtimjim wrote:Again, ask Yudster...


So you have auto-topsied ( ;) )the car and found that it was deffinately due to it being booted when too cold?


dimtimjim wrote:Thrashing a turbocharged car from cold is the second worst thing* you can do to it.


Not true, I find that crashing it and letting an elephant sit on it are two things that are worse than thrashing a tubo charged car from cold


dimtimjim wrote:People pop a turbo all the time and then face themselves with a £1,000+ bill, and for what?! Jus 'cos you couldn't be arsed to observe due care and attention.


If they were that fragile, they wouldnt be able to sell them.
#487041
DevilsDuck wrote:Not true, I find that crashing it and letting an elephant sit on it are two things that are worse than thrashing a tubo charged car from cold


Ok, thats funny. Well done.

DevilsDuck wrote:If they were that fragile, they wouldnt be able to sell them.


But this is funny - as in 'laugh at him' funny. They ARE that fragile. Please don't try to argue a point you clearly know nothing about. If unsure, read this thread back from page 1 (I can't be arsed to find it for you), DaveG knows enough to back me up... Or jus' do some good old fashioned google research. Either way, you'll find I'm right and you're jus' being stupid. Its perfectly possible to kill a turbo in 20,000. 60,000 is average, and 100,000 you've done well.
#487042
My turbo had over 170,000 miles on it when it went. I can't complain.
#487084
Yudster wrote:My turbo had over 170,000 miles on it when it went. I can't complain.


Wowzers, did it really!! Very well done missus!

charlalottie wrote:I've read all this and wondering what the flip a turbo is.


Simplified, its a compressor. It forces a more oxygen rich mixture into the engine. More O2 = more bang.


Changing the subject, my ruddy rear brake pads went last night - am now making a lovely grinding noise. This obviously needs sorting today. But, I went through my envelope of receipts last night, and can see no previous invoice for rear pads - which means mine have lasted 226,000 miles! Ace!

But, new rear pads, and I need 4 new tyres - I can see I'll be £600-800 lighter by the end of today. Grrr.
#487100
Managed to find somewhere local(ish) I can get 4x Continental tyres and my pads sorted and I'll get £2 change from £500 - pretty chuffed with that!
#487200
dimtimjim wrote:I went through my envelope of receipts last night, and can see no previous invoice for rear pads - which means mine have lasted 226,000 miles! Ace!

Or you forgot to file it? I mean - isn't 226,000 on the same brake pads pretty impossible unless you don't brake?
#487218
I did think that, and its a distinct possibility. But, you need to remember, most of my driving is in a striaght line up the M1, so even my front pads last over 80,000, which yes, for 'normal' driving would be impossible. On the way too work in the morning I worked out I only (bar any odd driving in front of me) touch the brakes 6 times. Obvs more on the way home in traffic, but still...
#490052
BUMP.

Just had my car insurance renewal through, £410, which isn't bad considering the mileage I do.

Two things: Firstly, I went on a comparison website, and my current insurers (Axa) came back as 'cannot quote due to vehicle modifications', which is slightly worrying... Secondly, and most annoyingly, I had a new windscreen fitted on my insurance this year, all good but I don't get a years No Claims added to my NCB. Although, my windscreen was recently hit and cracked again, so as soon as my policy renews I can get that sorted (can only claim 1 per years policy). This does of course mean ANOTHER year without building up my no claims, not happy. Am on 7, should be on 9. Poop.
#490058
I didn't lose any no-claims, just didnt build up another year. Kinda fair enough to my mind when they are saving me £500 on the price of a new one! Just annoying it needs replacing again already.

Have been insured with Prestige and Ady Flux in the past, never again...
#490059
dimtimjim wrote:I didn't lose any no-claims, just didnt build up another year. Kinda fair enough to my mind when they are saving me £500 on the price of a new one! Just annoying it needs replacing again already.

Have been insured with Prestige and Ady Flux in the past, never again...

I've found Sky Insurance really good for me so far, I've been with them for 2 years now!
#490303
T'went with an almight crunch - and very considerately only across the road from a McDonalds, which made the wait for the AA a little better...

Been sorting it all out this morning:

Gearbox £210
Clutch n flywheel kit £250
Labour £250ish (TBC).

So, about £700 ish all in, plus a few nights hotel accomodation (now up in sheffield via train and staying till at least Thursday) so not too bad...
#490308
dimtimjim wrote:T'went with an almight crunch - and very considerately only across the road from a McDonalds, which made the wait for the AA a little better...

Been sorting it all out this morning:

Gearbox £210
Clutch n flywheel kit £250
Labour £250ish (TBC).

So, about £700 ish all in, plus a few nights hotel accomodation (now up in sheffield via train and staying till at least Thursday) so not too bad...

Uprated Clutch? May as well! ;)
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